Day 5 On to Evora the Walled City

Today is Wednesday and we were tohead to the North to a town called Sitra but the main site of that town is closed on Wednesday so we move up our trip to Evora, the walled city. The city is almost 2,000 years old. The old section is on the highest ground and is walled. We make an effort to get up early and out to make the 1 hour 45 minute ride to the city to catch the free 90 minute walking tour. Not a chance but we do hit the road before 10 AM. We made three false starts before we leave the hotel.

I have to note here that they are working on the hotel, jack hammers, portugese workers arguing, dust all over the car. A total mess at times. These guys work from 8 AM until 8 PM Monday through Saturday. We were so tired when we arrived on Saturday we slept through the jack hammers and banging. I can only wonder what they are doing.

As we leave the hotel we say good morning to jose the floor buffer (I guess that is his name I never asked) but each day these man is running a floor buffer on the marble and terazza floors. We skirt the part he finished and head out. I program the GPS for Evora (pronounced EH-vo-rah) and squeeze out of our parking spot. As I follow the gPS I get a sese something is not right. I pulled over and had the GPS recalculate the route three times but it goes the same way each time. Then I remember that every other day we had headed to the train station the other direction. So we head out and hit the Highway and as I enter the Highway we hear that beeping again. I will figure out where it is coming from before we leave. We get on A5 anf set the cruise control to 120km/h (75mph) but I still get passed like I am standing still. These little cars come flying by doing at least 120 mph not km/h. The ride is a great ride to see the Portugese country side. Sorry no pictures of that since I can't snap photos and drive the car. Needless to say the country side is beautiful, It sort of reminds me of the area around the shore or as you go down 55 south near Millville except there is more green grass and fields and the trees are dispersed through the land. we pass vineyards that dwarf any vinyard in New Jersey.

As we get close to Evora we get off the thruway and pay the toll. 7.95 Euros (about $12) so don't let Corzine hear this. Tolls are steep here for roads.

When we got off the Thruway we were about 2 miles from the city, we approach the main gate so I turn the car through that gate and wonder if I will fit and end up at the square. I almost run over a few people as I stall the car. I make a left and turn down the street to look for a parking spot We finally get a spot about 5 Blocks from the entry gate. We walk through and immediately try to figure out where we are. I see a good city map on the entry wall to a garden but we can't see the name of the street we are on. Then I spy the street sign so we trudgr up the hill to Giraldo square. We head to the Tourismo Office and get a street map. I ask the young girl to suggest a good place for dinner but she declines saying it would not be ethical, she says ask someone in the street, which we don't. When we come out Doreen heads into a small shop and I wonder the square. Then I see two Chestnut carts at the same corner they are either husband and wife or crazy. The odd thing is later I saw people at both carts. When she comes out we stroll up and look for a place to eat lunch, oh yeah we left at before 10 AM but by the time we got to Evora, got lost in the maze of one way streets Ialleys) then finding a parking spot it is now 1 PM. I think the two of us are the slowest people in the world. Anyway we stop at the Cafeteria St. Humberto Doreen had the vegetable soup and chicken Salad (Soupa Verde and Salada Frango) and I had bean soup and the Humberto Salad (Ham and Cheese). We topped it off with two hot chocolates (Toffeee for Doreen and White Chocolate for me). We then head off to find the Roman Temple but instead my bumbling directions get us to the Cathedral. This town has over seven churches plus the cathedral. It costs 3 Euros to enter the Cathedral and it is not a Museum but a real Cathedral for the Archdiocese of Evorah. Here are pictures from the Cathedral and Cloisters. I don't have any shots of the Museum, which is at the top of the Cathedral. Look at the first picture and the Museum is at the top, no elevators just stairs.

Doreen then grabs the map from me and says the Roman Temple is that way. We head up the street and come to the Temple. With that I crown Doreen Vasco de Gama and have her navigate the map. I guess I am challenged in this ancient city. There isn't a straight street and none of the street signs match the map so we now head for The Church if St. Fancis of Assisi. This is also a working church but it also houses the remains or a shrine to St. Theresa The Little Flower of Jesus. I have to check on this since there wasn't any literature in English or guides. Here are the photos from the church.

Another feature or oddity of this church is the Bones Chapel. The chapel was built by the Monks with the Bones from the town grave yard. Yes human bones and skulls. The inscription over the chapel translates to "Our Bones are here waiting for yours." Gruesome huh!

When we left the chapel we went to a Market across from the chapel based on what our guide book (Rick Steves 2007 Portugal), when we open the door we are greeted with the most horendous odor of garbage and old cheese. We quickly make our way through a stainless steel walled hall with shops amd most are closed (I guess they open in the morning while we are on the road) so we head off and actually find a way to our car, well the tourist office marked it on the map for me. Here are some shots of the city. Mostly of the small streets that amaze me. As we walked these streets back to the car we have to quickly hug a wall as this knucklehead in a small van comes flying down this street and turns the corner looking at us like we infringed on his space. If he didn't slow down he would have hit the wall as he turned. Here is a picture of that street he came down. At the end of the street is where we turned and almost got hit.

Here are two shots from the square showing how good the building would look if you clean it up and paint it and what it looks like if you don't

We stumbled upon this ford dealership in a 2,000 year old city.

We try to find a good place to eat since the Tourist office gave us 35 to choose from. Well we strike out. 32 of them are in the city which we just left to get to our car and the others we try to find are non existent except for one which is closed even though it has its sign outside with its specials. So we head out to the thruway thinking we are going to eat on the thruway. We do stop at one of the rest areas to get a snack. Its a typical service area with gift shop , espresso bar, wines and beers. Oh yeah our service areas would never have beer and wine. I have a Cafe with Leitte (Coffee with Milk) and Doreen has a fruit punch. We have two traditional Portugese pastries, custard tart and a cookie in the shape of an Elephant ear. We g back to Cascais and still can't find a resturant so we go to the front desk and the clerk gives us a great place called Fornase de Guicho just a short 10 minute ride along the coast. This place was great. Expensive for some of the meals since they whell up an iced cart with fresh caught fish that you pay by the kilo. The cost is from 40 Euros to 50 Euros. We passon the fresh fish and I get the Stone Bass fillet with shell fish rice. Doreen goes for the Mederia Scallops with cream sauce. We don't ask what the fillet of meat is because it could be lamb or goat. It is rare but Doreen says it is good. The Bass is lightly fried with a delicate coating and a lemon taste. For dessert I go for the Lemon Merangue Pie while Doreen tries a traditional Portugese dessert of a Baked Apple covered in a sugar syrup with Cinnamon sticks. Both are delicious. We end the night when we get back to hotel and give the clerk the thumbs up for the suggestion. We also find out that Portugese people eat dinner anywhere from 9:00 PM or later. He said it isn't odd that they would stay open until 1 or 3 in morning.